2. Pressure Distribution Under Progressive Waves

Try these first

1. 1.

   Define Bernoulli's Equation.

   Hint

   Think about how fluid dynamics relates pressure to motion.

2. 2.

   What is dynamic pressure?

   Hint

   Consider pressures that change with wave movement.

3. 3.

   What does Bernoulli's equation primarily relate?

   • Pressure
   • velocity
   • and flux
   • Pressure
   • velocity
   • and fluid density
   • Pressure
   • velocity
   • and elevation

   Hint

   Remember how fluid dynamics works with height and pressure.

4. 4.

   True or False: Group celerity is the same as phase velocity.

   • True
   • False

   Hint

   Consider when waves travel together versus alone.

5. 5.

   Calculate the pressure difference at the surface and at the seabed (z = -d) for a given wave height and water density.

   Hint

   Consider both components of pressure.

6. 6.

   Explain how changes in wave period affect the pressure response factor n and how this impacts wave height predictions.

   Hint

   Think about how frequency affects wave behaviors.