1.4. Analyzing Displacement in Shallow Water

Try these first

1. 1.

   What does velocity potential represent?

   Hint

   Think about the relationship between potential energy and motion.

2. 2.

   In which condition do water particles move in elliptical orbits?

   Hint

   Consider the ratio of depth to wavelength.

3. 3.

   What shape do water particles follow in shallow water?

   • Circular
   • Elliptical
   • Straight

   Hint

   Remember the specific trajectory description in shallow conditions.

4. 4.

   In deep water, how do water particles behave?

   • True
   • False

   Hint

   Think about how depth influences particle behavior.

5. 5.

   Given water depth exceeds wavelength by a significant amount, derive the trajectory equation for water particles.

   Hint

   Use the properties of circular functions.

6. 6.

   Calculate the particle displacement in a wave when given parameters h, d, and k. Compare results when d/L is greater than and less than 1/20.

   Hint

   Keep track of which equations correspond to shallow and deep waters.