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Today, we will start by discussing the velocity potential in wave mechanics. Can anyone remind me what a velocity potential is?
Isn't it a function used to describe the flow of the fluid?
That's correct! A velocity potential allows us to define how we can compute the velocity vectors in a fluid flow. Now, regarding water displacement, we have equations involving horizontal and vertical components. Can anyone share what these components might represent?
I think horizontal displacement relates to how far the particles move in the x-direction, while vertical displacement pertains to movement in the z-direction?
Exactly! And this leads us to derive the important relationship, where both horizontal and vertical displacements can be expressed as ratios involving the semi-major and minor axes. This is key in understanding their paths.
So, like, in shallow water, the path changes?
Yes! In shallow water, if the ratio of depth to wavelength is less than 1/20, the displacements exhibit elliptical behavior. Let's summarize: in shallow water, the orbits become elongated, while in deep water, they become circular. Great understanding, everyone!
Now, let’s dive into the differences observed in shallow and deep water. When we refer to shallow water conditions, what do we expect to happen to the wave motion?
I think the waves are not as powerful, right? They get affected more by the bottom?
Great insight! That's right. As depth decreases, wave characteristics will transform significantly. For instance, in shallow waters, we often define parameters like D and B that relate the displacements to the height and wave properties.
And aren’t D and B related to the semi-major and semi-minor axes?
Absolutely! In an elliptical representation, D and B correspond to those axes. And in deep water, what happens?
They become equal, so it’s like a perfect circle!
Exactly! When both axes are equal, we observe circular particle paths. So, we can summarize: Shallow water means elliptical orbits, while deep water leads to circular orbits. Excellent discussion!
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In this section, key concepts related to wave kinematic parameters, including water particle displacement in both shallow and deep water, are discussed. The relationship between horizontal and vertical displacements and their implications on particle trajectories are highlighted.
In this section, we delve into the dispersion relationship of water particles under the influence of wave mechanics. We start by examining the velocity potential and its role in determining water particle displacements in both progressive waves and potential velocity scenarios.
The equations for horizontal and vertical particle displacements are derived as integrals involving velocity components, presenting a clear relationship between wave parameters. For shallow water, we see the relationship of displacements shifts towards significant simplification where the semi-major and semi-minor axes converge due to the behavior of the wave under limited depth conditions. Conversely, in deep water conditions, as depth increases, both axes equalize, leading to circular orbits for particle displacement.
The section concludes by referencing two solutions for determining the dispersion relationship, mentioning a specific equation for computational use in research, emphasizing its accuracy. Understanding these principles is critical to mastering fluid dynamics and wave mechanics.
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So, we have studied the velocity potential, we found out the velocities under the progressive where we have found out the acceleration now importantly we have to find out water particle displacement is nothing but integral u times g T w times d T in extend that direction respectively. So, the expression of individual horizontal and vertical particle displacement is integral u dt u we already know in terms of h before.
In this part, the text discusses the importance of understanding how water particles move under wave action, specifically their displacement. The displacement is calculated using integrals of the velocities found earlier. Essentially, we are learning how far and in what direction the water particles move due to wave energy.
Imagine throwing a stone into a pond. The ripples you see are like waves, and as they travel outward, the water particles move up and down and side to side. Just as the ripples create patterns, the formulas we’re discussing help us understand how the water responds to those waves.
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So, what we write is delta x by D whole squared + delta z by B whole squared = 1, this is in general what type of equation if D is not equal to be elliptical. So, this is an equation of analysts showing that water particle moves in an elliptical orbit. Here D is the semi major axis at the horizontal measure of the particle displacement and B is these semi minor axis that is the vertical measure of the particle displacement.
This equation relates the horizontal (delta x) and vertical (delta z) displacements of water particles, forming an elliptical shape. Here, D represents the 'semi-major axis' or the horizontal extent, and B represents the 'semi-minor axis' or the vertical extent of the orbit. This indicates that as waves propagate, water particles do not just move up and down but also sideways, tracing an elliptical path.
Think of an ellipse as the orbit of a planet around the sun but on a smaller scale with water particles. Just like a planet moves both closer and farther from the sun, the water particles oscillate in an elliptical motion in response to wave energy rather than simply up and down.
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Now we analyze this displacement in shallow water. So what happens in shallow water for d by L less than 1 by 20 we have 0.05 we have used cos hkd + z and sin hkd + 2 sin hkd + z goes to k d + z and sin hkd goes to kd..
In shallow water conditions, the behavior of water particle displacement changes. The text presents formulas that modify D and B based on the shallow water depth. As the wave height and wavelength change, the relationship between these measurements affects the motion of the water particles, transitioning from elliptical orbits to simpler forms.
Imagine walking through a shallow pool versus a deep lake. In shallow water, you can feel your feet on the bottom, which limits how much you can move. In waves, this simplifies the motion of water particles, similar to how you would walk more easily on shallow ground compared to deep water.
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So, in deep water for the case d by L greater than half D becomes h by 2 e to the power k d + z divided by e to the power k d - e to the power - kd as D is very large e to the power - k d + z and e to the power - kd will be very small.
In deep water, as the depth of water increases, the motion of water particles simplifies further as they begin to move in circular orbits rather than elliptical. The equations demonstrate how, in deep water, the changes in wave height and particle movement conform to predictable patterns, which mean water particles move in a circular path.
Consider how a roller coaster spins around a track. In deep water, the water particles are akin to the coaster cars moving in a circular loop, showing that even in deep water, the wave action maintains a consistent circular pattern.
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So, you see, this is the representation the schematic representation of fluid particle trajectories the amplitude of the water particle displacement it first of all it decreases exponentially along the water depth the water particle displacement becomes small relative to the wave height at a depth equal to one half the wavelength below this still water level.
This section highlights how particle displacement diminishes with depth, becoming less pronounced compared to the surface wave height. This understanding is crucial in applications, as it shows how wave energy dissipates as you go deeper in the water. The visual representation aids in grasping the concept of how movement diminishes below the surface.
Imagine tossing a stone in the ocean. The ripples you see at the surface are large and energetic, while deep below, the movement is less noticeable, just like how the distance from the waves affects how much the water moves.
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So, I think this is a fine point to stop. In the next lecture, we will conclude this module of invested flow that is wave mechanics and we start with the pressure distribution and the progressive waves from the next lecture and finish this module.
The concluding remarks indicate that the dispersion relationship has been discussed alongside its implications for wave mechanics, setting up the expectation for the next topic, which will delve into pressure distributions. This transition highlights the interconnectedness of these concepts in fluid dynamics.
Just like chapters in a book build on each other to create a coherent story, the learning about wave mechanics prepares us for understanding how pressure systems develop in fluid applications. Each idea works like a stepping stone.
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Key Concepts
Velocity Potential: A function that helps in calculating fluid flow velocity.
Water Particle Displacement: Movement of water particles due to wave action.
Shallow Water Conditions: Defined as conditions where depth-to-wavelength ratio is less than 1/20.
Deep Water Conditions: Defined as when depth exceeds half of wavelength.
Elliptical Orbits: Paths of water particles in shallow conditions.
Circular Orbits: Paths of water particles in deep conditions.
See how the concepts apply in real-world scenarios to understand their practical implications.
In shallow waters, particles exhibit elliptical orbits due to their depth affecting motion.
In deep waters, particles move in circular orbits, as the influence of the bottom is negligible.
Use mnemonics, acronyms, or visual cues to help remember key information more easily.
In shallow waves, we dance so free, Ellipses form in the deep blue sea.
Imagine a water particle in deep water, gliding in perfect circles, as shallow waves see it spinning in wide ellipses beneath the dim sunlight.
E-P-E-C: Elliptical paths in shallow, Circular paths in deep.
Review key concepts with flashcards.
Review the Definitions for terms.
Term: Velocity Potential
Definition:
A scalar function whose gradient describes the velocity field of a fluid flow.
Term: Water Particle Displacement
Definition:
The movement of water particles in response to wave motion, which can be expressed in horizontal and vertical components.
Term: Shallow Water
Definition:
Water conditions where the depth is less than approximately 1/20th of the wavelength.
Term: Deep Water
Definition:
Water depth conditions where the depth is greater than half the wavelength.
Term: Elliptical Orbit
Definition:
A path traced by a particle in fluid motion, where horizontal and vertical displacements differ.
Term: Circular Orbit
Definition:
A path traced by a particle where horizontal and vertical displacements are equal, resulting in circular trajectories.