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Today, we will explore the concepts of wave energy flux and wave power. Let's start with what wave energy flux means. Can anyone tell me?
Is it about how fast the energy is moving with the waves?
Exactly! Wave energy flux is the rate at which energy is transmitted in the direction of wave propagation. We calculate it using a vertical plane perpendicular to the wave's advance. Now, can anyone tell me how we express wave power mathematically?
Is it E times CG?
Right! E is the energy, and CG represents the group velocity. This formula helps us understand how wave power is related to wave properties. Remember, CG for deep water is half of C0. Can you repeat that?
The group velocity is half of C0 for deep water waves!
Great job! Now let's summarize the significance of these concepts. Wave power is crucial for various applications in marine energy and coastal engineering.
Now, let's talk about the conservation of wave power. Why do you think it's important to understand how wave power behaves when waves move to different water depths?
I think it helps us know how strong waves will be as they approach the shore. If they conserve power, they must change in height or speed, right?
Absolutely! As waves move from deep to shallow water, the overall wave power remains constant. Can anyone state the formula we use to express the relationship between wave heights at different depths?
It's the shoaling coefficient Ks that relates the heights!
Correct! The shoaling coefficient tells us how wave height changes in response to changes in water depth without considering the seabed's irregularities. It's crucial in coastal management. Who can summarize the shoaling coefficient's main purpose?
It helps calculate wave height in shallow water based on deep water height!
Exactly! Now, let's wrap up this session by recalling that the conservation of wave power allows us to predict wave behavior accurately in various aquatic environments.
In our final segment, we will discuss mass transport in wave motion. Can someone explain what happens to the particles as waves move?
The particles move in a circular or elliptical path but also advance a bit forward!
Right! This forward movement leads to mass transport in the direction of the wave. Does anyone know how mass transport speed is affected by wave height or steepness?
I remember that mass transport speed is higher for steep waves and lower for long-period waves!
Exactly! As wave height increases, mass transport increases significantly. This understanding is essential for assessing erosion and sediment transport in coastal regions. Let’s summarize what we learned today about mass transport and its relationship with wave behavior.
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The section details how wave energy and power are calculated using formulas involving energy flux and group velocity. It also explains the conservation of wave power between different water depths and introduces the shoaling coefficient, which relates deep water wave height to shallower water wave height.
In this section, we delve into the conservation of wave power, starting with the definition of wave energy flux, which is the rate at which energy moves in the direction of wave propagation. The average energy flux, or wave power, is defined mathematically as the product of energy (E) and group velocity (CG). For deep water waves, the group velocity is half the wave speed (C0), whereas, in shallow water, the group velocity equals the wave speed. The principle of conservation of wave power illustrates that as waves transition from deep to shallow water, the wave power remains constant, leading to changes in wave height. The shoaling coefficient (Ks) is crucial for determining the relationship between wave heights in deep and shallow waters without accounting for variations in the seabed. Furthermore, this section discusses mass transport in waves, noting that it is significantly influenced by wave height and is appreciably higher in steep, short waves. Overall, the conservation of wave power is fundamental in understanding wave dynamics in different aquatic environments.
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Wave energy flux is the rate at which energy is transmitted in the direction of wave propagation across a vertical plane perpendicular to the direction of wave advance. The average energy flux per unit wave crest transmitted across the plane is called wave power. It is given as e into CG, where CG is group velocity and e is the energy.
Wave power refers to the amount of energy generated by waves as they move through the water. To understand this, first, we need to know about wave energy flux. Energy flux is how quickly energy flows through a specific area, in this case, a vertical plane that cuts through the wave front. Wave power is calculated by multiplying the energy per wave (denoted as 'e') by the group velocity (CG), which tells us how fast the wave energy is traveling.
Imagine standing at the beach watching waves crash on the shore. Each wave carries energy, just like cars carry people as they travel down a highway. If we think of waves as cars, wave power is similar to the number of cars passing a point multiplied by how fast they're going. The faster they go (group velocity) and the more cars there are (energy per wave) means more wave power reaching the shore.
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The wave power is conserved if the wave moves from one depth to another. This means the average energy flux per unit wave crest remains constant as the wave travels from deep water to shallow water.
Conservation of wave power tells us that as a wave travels from deep to shallow water, the energy it carries does not disappear; instead, it remains the same. This is important because it allows us to use one known condition (like the wave power in deep water) to understand conditions at any other depth. The average energy flux per wave crest is consistent, which means as waves approach the shore, they maintain their energy even as conditions change.
Think of a water slide at a water park. When a person (representing wave energy) starts at the top (deep water), they have a lot of potential energy. As they slide down (moving to shallow water), the same person has the same energy, but how that energy translates into speed and impact can change. Just like how the wave energy maintains its power from one depth to another, the slider uses that potential energy to maintain speed.
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The relationship between wave height in deep water and wave height in shallower waters can be expressed using the shoaling coefficient. This shows how wave height changes as waves propagate from deep to shallow water.
When waves enter shallower waters, their height increases due to the conservation of energy. The shoaling coefficient (denoted as Ks) helps calculate the new wave height at any depth, based on the original height at deeper depths. This idea is crucial for predicting wave behavior in coastal engineering and understanding the potential impact on shorelines.
Imagine a straight river flowing into a narrow canyon. As the water approaches the canyon, it has to move faster and might splash higher because the space is smaller. Similarly, as ocean waves approach the shore (and shallower waters), they climb higher due to the conservation of wave power, similar to how water splashes higher in a constricted space.
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As waves move, particles in the water exhibit elliptical or circular motion, advancing a short distance in the direction of wave propagation. This creates what's known as mass transport, where the motion of the wave transports mass in the same direction as the wave progresses.
When waves roll through the ocean, the water particles don't just move up and down—they also move forward in the direction the wave is traveling. This forward movement of particles is called mass transport and occurs during the wave's cycle. It signifies that as waves move, there's a gradual shift of water in the same direction, contributing to currents and energy distribution in the sea.
Consider a group of kids at a pool, jumping up and down on inflatable mats. While they bounce, they also drift toward the edge of the pool due to waves they create. Just like the kids, the water particles move up and down while also moving along with the wave's direction, resulting in a flow of water toward the shore.
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Key Concepts
Wave Energy Flux: The measure of energy transmission per unit area and time.
Wave Power: Calculated as E × CG, indicating the power potential of wave energy.
Conservation of Wave Power: The principle that wave power remains consistent as waves transition between depths.
Shoaling Coefficient: A vital equation for estimating wave height based on depth changes.
Mass Transport: The movement of water resulting from wave motions, influenced by wave height and steepness.
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In deep water, if a wave has a height of 2 meters, and we know the group velocity is half the wave speed, we can calculate the wave power using the defined formulas.
As waves move from deep to shallow water in a calm area, the waves will increase in height, demonstrating the conservation of wave power.
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Wave heights grow as waters grow shallow; conservation's the key, follow the flow!
Imagine a wave carrying a heavy load of water from deep water to the shallow shore; as it approaches the coast, it rises high, conserving its energy yet striving to tie.
Remember CG: C for 'constant', G for 'group velocity' – constant power behind wave heights.
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Review the Definitions for terms.
Term: Wave Energy Flux
Definition:
The rate at which energy is transmitted in the direction of wave propagation across a vertical plane.
Term: Wave Power
Definition:
The average energy flux per unit wave crest transmitted across the plane perpendicular to wave advance, given by the formula E × CG.
Term: Group Velocity (CG)
Definition:
The speed at which wave energy travels, which is half the wave speed for deep water.
Term: Shoaling Coefficient (Ks)
Definition:
A ratio that quantifies the change in wave height as waves transition from deep water to shallower depths.
Term: Mass Transport
Definition:
The forward movement of water particles during wave motion, influenced by wave height.