1.3. Deep Water and Shallow Water Relations

Try these first

1. 1.

   What does wave energy flux represent?

   Hint

   Think about energy transfer in waves.

2. 2.

   What is the relationship between group velocity and phase speed in deep water?

   Hint

   Recall the formula for group velocity.

3. 3.

   What is wave energy flux?

   • Energy per wave crest
   • Total energy in a wave
   • Energy transmitted in the direction of wave propagation

   Hint

   Focus on the definition of wave energy.

4. 4.

   True or False: In shallow water, group velocity is greater than phase speed.

   • True
   • False

   Hint

   Recall the relationships of wave dynamics.

5. 5.

   Given a wave height in deep water, calculate the expected wave height when the wave enters shallower water using the appropriate formulas.

   Hint

   Use values for 'C0', 'C', and the shoaling coefficient in your calculation.

6. 6.

   Analyze how changes in wave height could influence coastal erosion rates based on mass transport dynamics.

   Hint

   Think about practical implications for coastal structures.