1.6. Mass Transport in Waves

Try these first

1. 1.

   Define wave power using its formula.

   Hint

   Look for the product of energy and speed.

2. 2.

   What does shoaling refer to in wave dynamics?

   Hint

   Think about how waves behave approaching land.

3. 3.

   What is the formula for wave power?

   • P = e * CG
   • P = e / CG
   • P = CG / e

   Hint

   Think about how power relates to energy and speed.

4. 4.

   True or False: Shoaling coefficient decreases as wave height increases.

   • True
   • False

   Hint

   Consider the behavior of waves approaching shallow conditions.

5. 5.

   A wave has an energy per unit crest of 15 J/m, and its group velocity is 8 m/s. Calculate the wave power and describe the physical significance.

   Hint

   Use the wave power formula directly.

6. 6.

   Given a shoaling coefficient of 1.2 and wave characteristics changing from deep to shallow water, what does this imply about the wave height? Calculate if the initial wave height was 2 m.

   Hint

   Apply the shoaling relationship to wave height.