1.5. Shoaling Phenomena

Try these first

1. 1.

   What is wave energy flux?

   Hint

   Think of it in terms of energy per area.

2. 2.

   What formula is used to calculate wave power?

   Hint

   Focus on key components of energy transfer.

3. 3.

   What does wave power refer to?

   • Energy per unit length
   • Energy flux per unit area
   • Energy per wave crest

   Hint

   It relates closely to wave energy flux.

4. 4.

   True or False: Shoaling only occurs in deep water.

   • True
   • False

   Hint

   Think of how waves behave near shores.

5. 5.

   A coastal engineer has to predict the wave height at a nearshore site. If a deep-water wave has a height of 2m, what will be the height in shallow waters given a C_0 of 1.5m/s?

   Hint

   Relate the wave height in shallow water back to the deep-water height using the ratio.

6. 6.

   Discuss the impact of mass transport in high steep waves compared to low, long-period waves at a coastal site.

   Hint

   Consider physical movement differences in steep versus flat waves.