1.4 - Amplitude of the Wave and Wave Propagation
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Practice Questions
Test your understanding with targeted questions
What is the formula for wave celerity?
💡 Hint: Think about how wavelength and time relate to the speed of waves.
Define velocity potential.
💡 Hint: Consider the energy of the wave movement.
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Interactive Quizzes
Quick quizzes to reinforce your learning
What determines the wave celerity?
💡 Hint: Consider what parts of a wave influence its speed.
True or False: The dispersion relationship indicates wave speed is independent of water depth.
💡 Hint: Reflect on how depth influences wave dynamics.
1 more question available
Challenge Problems
Push your limits with advanced challenges
Derive the equation for celerity as a function of water depth using the dispersion relationship, σ² = gk tanh(kd). Show your workings and discuss how this relates to real-world wave behavior.
💡 Hint: Utilize the fact that k = 2π/L when expressing L.
Explain how the phase of a wave changes in shallow vs. deep water and derive the impact on the wave's observable behavior.
💡 Hint: Consider the effects of friction and bottom interactions as depth decreases.
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