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Today, we'll explore embroidery, an ancient art of decorating fabric using threads. It has a rich history across many cultures, particularly in India. Can anyone tell me what they think embroidery involves?
I think it’s about stitching colorful designs on clothes?
Does it have historical significance too?
Great points! Yes, embroidery is not just stitching; it’s like painting with a needle and it embodies cultural expressions. Remember: **E for Embroidery = Expression**. Let's discuss how it's practiced across different socio-economic levels.
Can you name some styles of embroidery we see in India? Each style links to its region.
I remember Phulkari and Chikankari from our last class!
What about Kantha or Kashida?
Exactly! Phulkari, known for its floral designs, hails from Punjab, while Kantha from Bengal involves stitching layers of old clothing. **Phulkari has a P for 'Pleasing Patterns'**. How do you think these styles reflect their culture?
They probably tell stories or symbolize traditions.
Now, let's talk about the materials used. What types of threads can we utilize in embroidery?
Silk and cotton are common, right?
What about metal threads?
Absolutely! Gold or silver threads add elegance. Think of it as **M for Materials connects with Magnificence!** Anyone knows how these materials impact the embroidery's appearance?
Using finer materials probably makes the embroidery look more refined.
Embroidery is often seen as a homely craft. Why do we think that is?
Maybe because it's done mostly by women at home?
And it’s a way to express creativity during leisure.
Exactly! While often a handicraft, it has also turned into a commercial activity. Remember: **H for Handicraft = Home Culture.** Let’s discuss examples of commercialized embroidery styles that have evolved into trade.
As we wrap up, can anyone summarize the embroidery styles we've discussed?
We talked about Phulkari, Kantha, and Chikankari!
Oh! And Kashida and Kasuti too!
Great recall! Each style tells its own story and reflects the region's culture. Each of you could think of a region and its style to illustrate its unique attributes next time!
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This section discusses the significance of embroidery as a cultural art form practiced across various socio-economic levels and fabrics in India. It highlights various regional styles such as Phulkari, Kasuti, Kantha, Kashida, Chikankari, and more, detailing their unique features and cultural backgrounds.
Embroidery represents a significant aspect of textile arts, characterized by the decorative use of threads made from silk, cotton, gold, or silver. Often referred to as 'painting with a needle', embroidery has an ancient history that spans across cultures and regions, particularly prevalent in India. The art has been practiced at multiple socio-economic levels, from nomadic communities to royal households, showcasing a rich tapestry of techniques and materials.
Key embroidery styles include:
1. Phulkari: Originating from Punjab, Phulkari (meaning 'flower work') is known for its vibrant motifs and use of untwisted silk floss on coarse cotton.
2. Kasuti: A subtle embroidery style from Karnataka, Kasuti draws inspiration from temple architectures and often employs fine silk threads.
3. Kantha: Hailing from Bengal, Kantha utilizes layers of old textiles, combining functional stitching with intricate designs and providing ritual significance.
4. Kashida: Associated with Kashmir, this embroidery utilizes local wool and combines techniques from various influences, characterized by a flat stitch technique.
5. Chikankari: Known for its white-on-white embroidery, Chikankari from Uttar Pradesh involves shadow work and intricate designs that have commercialized significantly.
6. Gujarat Embroidery: Featuring colorful and vibrant designs from nomadic tribes, with applicability in household items and attire.
7. Chamba Rumals: From Himachal Pradesh, these embroidered cloths are employed in traditional gifting and depict mythological themes.
Embroidery transcends mere decoration, linking economic practices, cultural traditions, and gender roles, primarily engaging women and occasionally men as artisans involved in trade.
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Embroidery is the art of surface ornamentation of fabric with threads of silk, cotton, gold or silver using needle or needle-like tools. Embroidery, an ancient art form, referred to as painting with a needle, was practised in many parts of the world. In India too it has been practised from very early times and there is evidence to indicate that embroidery was prevalent all over the country.
Embroidery involves decorating fabric using different types of threads and techniques. Historically, it has been done worldwide and has a deep-rooted history in India. It is significant because it showcases cultural heritage and craftsmanship. The use of various materials for embroidery demonstrates the versatility and resourcefulness of artisans across different regions.
Think of embroidery like painting on a canvas, but instead, the canvas is a piece of fabric and the paint is replaced by colorful threads. Just as artists express their emotions and stories through paintbrushes, embroiderers tell stories through their stitches and patterns.
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Embroidery was prevalent at all socio-economic levels—from the nomadic cattlemen to members of royal households. It has been done on all kinds of fabrics—from the most coarse cotton and camel wool to the finest of silks and pashminas. Embroidery used all materials and threads, and it made varied articles such as personal clothing, household use, home decoration, and offerings for religious places.
Embroidery is not limited to a specific class but spans across various socio-economic backgrounds. People from different walks of life, whether rich or poor, engage in embroidery, reflecting their culture and lifestyle. By using varying fabrics and materials, embroidery connects personal expression with functional items in daily life, enriching both cultural and economic aspects of society.
Imagine embroidery as a universal language, where every stitch and thread tells a story unique to the person's culture and lifestyle. Just as different neighborhoods have distinct architectural styles, various regions showcase their cultural identity through their embroidery techniques.
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Phulkari is the art of embroidery of Punjab. It is the term used for both the embroidery and the chaddar or shawl made with this type of embroidery. Phulkari means ‘flower work’ or a bed of flowers. The embroidery is done on coarse cotton (khaddar) material with untwisted silk floss called pat and was traditionally associated with wedding ceremonies.
Phulkari embroidery is characterized by vibrant floral patterns and is made by using simple stitches on cotton fabric. It holds cultural significance, especially during weddings, symbolizing the beauty and prosperity of the occasion. The tradition of creating Phulkari involves not just craftsmanship but also emotional ties within families, particularly among women.
Think of Phulkari as a garden of flowers, each stitch representing a blooming flower. Just as gardens are nurtured and cared for, so too are these embroidery pieces, made with love and dedication, often passed down through generations as family heirlooms.
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Kasuti is the term used for the embroidery of Karnataka. It is derived from the Persian word kashida, which means embroidery. This is the most subtle form of embroidery, where the embroidery threads follow the pattern of the weave of the fabric, done on silk material with fine strands of silk threads.
Kasuti embroidery is unique because it merges beautifully with the weave of the fabric, creating a subtle yet intricate design. It primarily uses silk threads that blend with the fabric, making it look elegant. This form of embroidery highlights the skilled craftsmanship of the women in Karnataka, often inspired by local temple architecture.
Consider Kasuti embroidery as the delicate brush strokes of an artist perfecting a breathtaking painting. It requires precise placement and a keen eye, much like how an artist mixes colors to achieve the perfect hue that complements the canvas.
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Kantha embroidery of Bengal is done on a base prepared by 3-4 layers of old cotton sarees or dhotis. The embroidery is like quilting—small running stitches going through all the layers of the base material. This embroidery may have had its origin in darning to strengthen the worn-out areas.
Kantha is a form of embroidery that combines practicality with creativity. By using older fabrics, artisans create beautiful and functional pieces that have a history and character. The repetitive running stitches not only hold the fabric together but also elaborate on intricate designs that reflect the cultural identity of Bengal.
Think of Kantha like a patchwork quilt that tells a story from the past. Each stitch is a memory woven together to create warmth and beauty, much like how families gather around shared stories and experiences.
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Kashida is the general term used for embroidery in Kashmir, with important styles like suzani and zalakdozi. Kashmiri embroidery is done on woollen fabrics and has a commercial aspect, as it is predominantly done by men and caters to the market demand.
Kashmiri embroidery techniques elevate woollen textiles into luxurious products with intricate patterns. The suzani style uses flat stitches for beautiful designs, while zalakdozi employs a chain stitch. The shift from traditional handcraft to a market-oriented approach showcases the evolution of Kashmiri embroidery in contemporary society.
Imagine the bustling markets of Kashmir where artisans transform ordinary wool into extraordinary pieces of art. Just as chefs elevate simple ingredients into culinary masterpieces, these artisans use their skills to transform fabric into wearable art.
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Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh is the embroidery, which was commercialized at a very early stage. Originally it was done on white material with white thread, creating shadow effects and intricate designs.
Chikankari is not just a style of embroidery; it's a symbol of elegance and sophistication. Known for its fine craftsmanship, it uses subtle stitching techniques to create shadow work that enhances the fabric's beauty. Over time, it has evolved to include the use of colorful threads and materials, catering to modern fashion.
Think of Chikankari like the gentle whispers of a breeze, subtle yet impactful in enhancing the beauty of the fabric. Just as whispers can convey deep emotions, the delicate stitches of Chikankari evoke elegance, making each piece unique.
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India has beautiful textiles that have been recognized for their beauty and craftsmanship. Repeated invasions, migrations, and cultural exchanges have enriched the textile craft of India.
The rich heritage of Indian embroidery is not just about the techniques but the stories and traditions behind them. Every stitch has a historical significance that reflects the diverse culture of India. Today, these traditional forms continue to thrive, adapting to modern needs while preserving their unique identity.
Consider Indian embroidery as a tapestry of history, with each thread representing a different era and culture woven together. Just as communities evolve, so do these artistic expressions, continually shaping and being shaped by the society around them.
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Key Concepts
Embroidery is an art form that enhances fabric through decorative stitching.
Embroidery styles vary by region, reflecting cultural significance and techniques.
Materials used in embroidery can include threads from silk, cotton, and even metal.
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Phulkari embroidery features vibrant floral patterns reflecting the Punjab culture.
Chikankari, originally done in pure white on white fabric, is famous for its delicate shadow work.
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Embroidery stitches, bright and neat, decorate the fabric, a visual treat!
Once in a village, a grandmother made a Phulkari shawl for her granddaughter, each stitch woven with love and stories of flowers.
Remember 'EACH' for Embroidery Art: 'E' for Expression, 'A' for Artisan, 'C' for Culture, 'H' for Heritage.
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Review the Definitions for terms.
Term: Embroidery
Definition:
The art of decorating fabric by stitching patterns using thread.
Term: Phulkari
Definition:
A form of embroidery from Punjab characterized by floral motifs.
Term: Kasuti
Definition:
A subtle embroidery from Karnataka where the threads follow the pattern of the fabric weave.
Term: Kantha
Definition:
Bengali embroidery done on layers of old cloth, often featuring running stitches.
Term: Kashida
Definition:
Embroidery from Kashmir primarily utilizing wool and featuring intricate designs.
Term: Chikankari
Definition:
Embroidery from Uttar Pradesh known for white-on-white designs with delicate stitching.
Term: Appliqué
Definition:
A method of creating designs by sewing cut pieces of fabric onto a background material.