7C.3.2. Silk

Silk fabrics have been made in India since ancient times. We learnt in the earlier chapter that the origin of silk was in China. However, some silk must have been used in India as well. Silk weaving is mentioned as early as the 3rd century BC.

Silk has a rich history in India, even though it originated in China. The early references to silk weaving show that this craft was established in India as early as the 3rd century BC. This indicates the significance of silk in Indian culture and its economic relevance in ancient times.

Think of silk as an early form of luxury good. Just as today’s high-end fashion labels use silk for their elegant collections, ancient Indian societies valued silk fabric for its beauty and rarity, making it a prestigious item.

Silk weaving centres developed in and around the capitals of kingdoms, holy cities or trade centres. As the weavers migrated, it helped in the development and creation of many new centres.

Silk weaving in India flourished in various regions, especially around historical trade routes and important cities. The movement of skilled weavers enabled not just the preservation of techniques but also the innovation of new styles, which contributed to the variety of silk products we see today.

Imagine a band of artisans traveling from one village to another, sharing their techniques and ideas as they go. This is similar to how silk weavers spread their knowledge, resulting in a tapestry of unique weaving styles across different regions.

Different regions in our country have specific silk weaving styles. Some of the important centres are Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, which has an old tradition in weaving special styles.

Varanasi stands out as a significant hub for silk weaving, known for its unique brocade or kinkhwab. Each region in India has adapted its silk weaving techniques, resulting in distinct patterns and styles that reflect local culture and heritage.

Just as different neighborhoods in a city might be known for their unique foods, such as spicy tacos in one area and sweet pastries in another, various regions in India have made their mark in silk weaving with unique styles, making each city's silk a distinct form of art.

Its splendour and elegance and the high cost of the fabric gave it its name—kinkhwab meaning something a person cannot even dream of or a fabric which is seldom seen in a dream or the golden (kin) dream (khwab).

Kinkhwab signifies the high status and beauty associated with certain silk fabrics. This name reflects the cultural significance of silk in society, representing luxury and aspiration, similar to how some people view fine art or precious jewelry.

Think of kinkhwab silk as the 'Ferrari' of fabrics—it’s known for its luxury and exclusivity. Just like owning a Ferrari is often seen as reaching a high status, wearing kinkhwab symbolizes elegance, wealth, and refinement.

Throughout the period of recorded history, there are references extolling the excellence of Indian fabrics made from cotton, silk and wool. They were known for their fabric characteristics as well as for designs produced on them through weaving, resist dyeing, printing and embroidery.

Indian silk fabrics are not only admired for their quality but also for the intricate designs crafted onto them. The techniques used for dyeing and embellishing these fabrics show India's historical craftsmanship and its influence in the global textile market.

Much like how modern fashion showcases intricate designs and high-quality materials that tell stories of craftsmanship, Indian silk has a similar narrative spanning thousands of years, celebrating the art of weaving, dyeing, and design.

From around 15th century onwards India was the greatest exporter of textiles ever known. The setting up of the various East India Companies by the European nations was associated with textile trade from India.

By the 15th century, India's silk and other textiles became global commodities, highly sought after by traders worldwide. This demand led to significant economic relationships and ultimately influenced colonial enterprises, such as the establishment of East India Companies.

Think of India's silk fabrics as the iPhones of the 15th century—an innovative product that was highly desirable, creating trade routes and economic opportunities while also impacting cultures globally.

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