5.6. Textile Finishing

If you see the fabric as it comes out from the loom you will not be able to recognize it as the material you see in the market. All of the fabrics that are available in the market have received one or more finishing treatments, and except for whites, colour has been added to them in some form or the other.

Textile finishing refers to the treatments that fabrics undergo after they are woven or knitted. When fabrics come directly out of looms or knitting machines, they are often not ready for sale or use. They often lack the quality, texture, and appearance that consumers expect. Therefore, various finishing techniques are applied to improve their properties. Moreover, most dyed fabrics are not just dyed after being made; they often receive treatments to enhance their durability and aesthetic appeal.

Think about a piece of clay that comes out of a mold. It might not look appealing at first, but once it is painted, glazed, and polished, it becomes a beautiful vase or sculpture. Similarly, fabric finishing is like the final touches that make fabric usable and attractive.

A finish is any treatment on the fabric which can change its appearance, its textures or its behaviour for specific use. Finishes that are considered absolutely necessary are known as ‘routine’. The finishes may be durable (do not get removed on washing or drycleaning) like dyeing, or renewable (need to be applied repeatedly as they get removed on washing) like starching or blueing.

Finishing treatments can be broadly categorized based on their longevity. 'Routine finishes' are essential treatments that fabrics need to have a desired look or functionality. Durable finishes, such as dyeing, remain intact even after multiple washes, while renewable finishes, like starching, may need to be reapplied regularly to maintain the fabric's condition. This ensures that the fabric remains functional and appealing through its lifecycle.

Imagine a jacket that is treated to be water-resistant. It can withstand rain without getting soaked. This durability is akin to a paint that stays bright and intact on a house even after many seasons, while a fresh coat of paint might be needed after a few months due to fading or peeling.

A few important finishes depending upon their functions are: • Change appearance: Cleaning (scouring, bleaching), straightening and smoothening (calendering and tentering) • Change textures: Starching or sizing, special calendering • Change behaviour: Wash and wear, permanent press, water repellent or water proof, mothproof, flame retardant or fire proof, anti-shrink (sanforisation).

Finishes serve multiple functions depending on what is needed from the fabric. Some finishes focus on changing the visual aspects of the fabric, like smoothing fibers or bleaching. Others might change the texture, making the fabric stiffer or giving it a different feel. Furthermore, some finishes are crucial for altering the way the fabric behaves, like making it resistant to water or fire. Each finishing technique is designed to enhance either the appearance, texture, or functionality of the fabric.

Consider jeans that are treated to be fade-resistant; this means they will retain their color over time despite multiple washes, just like a sunscreen protects skin against sun damage, making it last longer under harsh sun exposure.

Finishing with colour: Colour is often the most important factor in selection of fabric, whether it is to be used for apparel or in the house. Substances that can add colour to the fabric in a manner that it does not easily wash out are known as dyes. The method of dying depends on the chemical natures of the fibre and the dye, and the type of effect desired.

Adding color to fabric is a crucial finishing step, as the choice of color can significantly affect consumer choice. Dyes are used to impart color in a way that it remains fixed even after several washes. Different methods of dyeing are chosen based on the type of fabric and the desired aesthetic result. Factors such as the chemical compatibility of the fiber and dye play a vital role in the effectiveness of the dyeing process.

Think of how a colored marker can change the way a plain sheet of paper looks. Just like how the marker needs to be compatible with the paper to ensure the ink doesn’t smudge or fade easily, dyes have to be suitable for the fabric to ensure vibrant and lasting colors.

Printing: It is a more advanced or specialised form of dyeing. It involves the localized application of colour which is restricted within the given limits of design. Printing uses special tools which cause the transfer of colour only to the specified areas.

Printing is a technique that allows for detailed designs and patterns on the fabric rather than applying a single color uniformly. It enhances the fabric's aesthetic appeal and can introduce a variety of colors and designs, making it suitable for fashion items. This method uses templates, screens, and stencils to ensure that color is applied to specific areas only, allowing creativity in fabric design.

Think of how an artist uses a stencil to paint a pattern on a wall. Each color is carefully placed in its spot, creating a beautiful design without bleeding into other areas. Similarly, in fabric printing, colors are applied in specific areas to create stunning patterns, like floral designs or geometric shapes.

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